Problem: back deflection

Are your skirts and trousers always wide at the back in your belt, and fitted dresses and cardigans are baggy for you? Do not despair!

Here we will tell you how to solve this problem once and for all, by properly fitting the pattern to the shape.
Finished skirt
To remove the excess length that "gathers" from the back under the belt into a fold on the back panel, pin the fold along the midline, reducing it to the side seams to nothing (1), and lower the belt accordingly below.
Pattern
With a slight deflection of the back, it is enough to lower the line of the upper cut of the posterior panel along the midline by 1 cm and to nullify along the arcuate line to the side cut (2).

With a pronounced back deflection on the pattern of the back panel, mark the horizontal correction line passing through the top of the tuck (3), and cut the pattern along it, slightly not reaching the side cut. Make a cut in the middle of the tuck to its top. From the middle line to the top of the tuck, lay transverse slices on top of each other in the form of a fold, and from the top to the side cut, in the form of a tuck (4).
Pants like a glove!
The back half of the trousers is adjusted according to the figure in the same way as the back panel of the skirt (5). In addition, an additional 0.5 cm to 1 cm is additionally removed at the top of the rear middle seam.
TIP It is best to cut the belt out of two halves (= with the back middle seam) and grind it before the back middle seam is made. Then, if necessary, the excess width is easily removed in the rear middle seam during its subsequent execution.

Jackets and dresses - a perfect fit!
Cutting Waist Models
Remove the excess back length into the transverse fold laid on the back at the waist level and nullified to the side seams (6), and if necessary, remove the excess width into the middle seam and / or tucks. The back pattern of models with a cutting waist is adjusted similarly.
Solid models
To change the back pattern at the waist level, mark the adjustment line in the horizontal direction and cut the pattern along it, not reaching the side cut. Lay cross sections on top of each other in the form of a tuck with a vertex at the side cut. Instead of a “broken” line of the middle seam of the back at the waist, draw a new, smoother (7).
IMPORTANT According to the pattern, adjusted as described, the back is cut out not with a bend, but from two halves - with the middle seam.
It is important to know
Owners of a figure with a pronounced deflection of the back should determine the size of skirts and trousers by the circumference of the hips (measured at a distance of 20 cm below the waist), and dresses, cardigans and coats - by the circumference of the chest.
If necessary, the difference in the circumference of the hips and waist is leveled in the side and embossed seams.
Drawings: Heidemarie Tengler-Stadelmeier, Elke Treyer-Schäfer, Anastasios Vulgaris.