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Belgian: more mundane, ascetic, modernist. They say that from this famous Diorovsky New Look began to play in a new light.
Now the work of Raf Simons is called by many successful, but two years ago his appointment was surprising for many. How so - a little artsy and magnificent French Dior style and Belgian minimalism, sometimes reaching asceticism? In addition, only in 2005, Raf Simons - after practicing technical design and men's fashion - began to create female models for JilSander, and completely alien to the New Look style.
But, as it turned out, opposites attract and complement each other, and already 7 weeks after the appointment of Raf Simons, a completely new collection was presented to the world. And connoisseurs of world fashion were forced to admit that Raf Simons is exactly what the Dior Fashion House has been lacking lately.
Femininity, chic, gray and pink - the Dior crown colors, the architecture and sculptural character of the outfit - all this Raf Simons retained, but at the same time brought a note of modernism and life, the so-called street fashion, earthiness, everyday life. And of course, laconicism and purism.And as it turned out, Dior’s style gained a lot from this.
For example, he combines the famous Diorovsky baroque jacket not with a magnificent Diorovo skirt, but with cigarette pants, then transforms it into a stylish cocktail vest. Ruff Simons turned lush evening dresses into a mini, and sewed on pockets to others, typical for everyday fashion. He put on shorts under the high cuts of long dresses. Double-breasted vests turned into dresses. I sewed corsages from fabric with a chicken foot pattern. Corolle performed evening dresses from black rocker leather. He transferred the famous Diorovsky embroidery to shoes and boots.
The purist Raf Simons removed the heaviness, pomp, theatricality from the collections, reduced them to the level of everyday life. “Present-day fashion must be dynamic,” says Raf Simons. Wearable models, at the same time chic and stylish-laid-back.
Nevertheless, in fact, Raf Simons continued the traditions of Christian Dior himself: “Using the language of form, familiar to the eye” ... it presents “in a completely unexpected form” (excerpts from the quote from Raf Simons). And the designer himself considers himself a romantic, close in spirit to Christian Dior, because he grew up in the Belgian province, where everyone loves and grows flowers.
The highest achievement, in his opinion, is to come up with something new, which then will turn into a standard.
Raf Simons - the "eternal student" - usually walks in a sweater over his shirt. And in dark trousers. He avoids public and social life. Nevertheless, he occasionally has to take part in it.
By the way, Raf Simons and Christian Dior are also united by a love of painting.As you know, Dior began his career as a gallery owner - from 1928 to 1932 he exhibited in his gallery the canvases of the most modernist artists of the time: Picasso, Matisse, Braque, Moreau, Dali, Cocteau, Calder. Raf Simons is a great connoisseur of contemporary art avant-garde and a passionate collector. At his initiative, Dior Fashion House sponsors exhibitions of promising young artists at the Guggenheim Museum in New York.
Raf Simons's passion for contemporary art is reflected in his collections. So, on ready-to-wear 2013/2014 models, motifs from the works of Andy Warhol and Salvador Dali were embroidered.
Raf Simons believes he has just begun updating the Dior Fashion House. Its ultimate goal is to make Dior's style recognizable in every woman walking down the street ...
By the way, on our website you can see the stars of the Cannes Film Festival in dresses from Dior, as well as take a master class on making the same necklace as in the collection of Raf Simons (see link below).
Photo: burdastyle.ru; image / de; catwalkpix.com.
The material was prepared by Elena Karpova.
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